Georg Jensen jewellery is renowned for its craftsmanship and design, as well as the designers who have collaborated with the world renowned Danish brand. One in particular, the collaboration with Swedish designer and silversmith Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe has made a lasting impact that has stood the test of time, starting back in 1967. In celebration of the 50th anniversary of this collaboration The LuxPad looks back over Vivianna’s incredible contribution to world of design and in particular to Georg Jensen jewellery.
Born in Malmö Sweden in 1927, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (1927-2004) graduated from the academy of Industrial Arts in Stockholm in 1945 and in 1956 she settled in Paris where she quickly became known for her jewellery. Many of her designs have come legendary and are now exhibited at several museums worldwide including the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
More than just a brilliant jewellery designer, Vivianna was philosophical about the role of design in our everyday lives;
‘A piece of jewellery should be a symbol of love. It should enhance and move with the body so that it blends with you. It must not overwhelm, but enhance you. This is why it must be timeless. It shouldn’t matter if you are 17 or 87 years old.’
One of the most iconic watch design classics in the Georg Jensen watch collection is the Viviana bangle watch. Reflecting back on her inspiration for the bangle watch, Vivianna once explained;
“Then watches were only chronometers – measurers of time, which one got constantly caught out by. I wanted to free people from the slavery of time, I wanted to make a watch which reminded one that life is here and now, so I created a watch with a mirror face, no numbers and a simple second hand. A watch should not make us prisoners of time but liberate us. Perhaps it was possible to make a timepiece which more intensely perceived the Here and Now. The watch is open ended to symbolise that time should not bind us, and the dial like a mirror reminds us that life is now”
In keeping with the Georg Jensen tradition of innovation, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe set out to reinvent the very concept of time.
Over the last 50 years many unique Georg Jensen jewellery pieces from Vivianna have come into fruition, with a strong focus on simplicity and straightforward beauty. Creating her forms not for aesthetics alone, Vivianna carefully considered both the form and function of every jewellery design she produced. Practical details such as the fastening of one of her pieces of jewellery was not concealed but deviating from the norm it was accentuated, based on the Vivianna’s philosophy that what is functional is also beautiful.
Believing that a jewellery piece should feel like a caress, Vivianna felt that each design should adapt to the movements of the body and become a natural part of the wearer. Trying the pieces herself during the development process Vivianna ensured that the jewellery would not hinder any movements. Vivianna started up her workshop in Sweden and later in Paris, and despite having the very basic tools she had an incredible talent for mastering the metals. This is why many of the beautiful jewellery pieces that she created are woven out of a single strand of metal, like we see in the Dew Drop, Torun and Forget-me-knot collections.
All of the Georg Jensen jewellery pieces designed by Vivianna have behind them a wealth of craftsmanship, making them timeless heirlooms of the future.